The Lazy Girl’s Guide to Hiking the Southwest Coastal Path in England

The crashing waves bring healing no matter how you face them

See that straight path down the side of the cliff? It’s too steep to hike. You need to use the switchbacks to the right. This is only a short way up in comparison to some. Photo by author.

“Where’s the coastal path?” a red-faced man gasped demandingly between breaths.”
“You’re on it.”
“No this isn’t it. Coastal path, on the coast. We’re going to walk to Tintagel.”
“This is it. It’s not on the beach, it’s here on the cliff.”
“Well, are there any more hills like that one?”
“Six or seven? Don’t know. I lost count.”
“Well, forget that then. We’re going back.” They turned around and stomped away grumbling. “It should be called a cliff path, not a coast path.”
— Raynor Winn, The Salt Path

I wasn’t even aware the great Southwest Coastal Path existed until I moved to the southwest of England. We ended up staying in an Airbnb right across from the path.

Every morning I’d get up, have my tea, then hike a section of the path. This involved crossing the street to the beach on the other side. I’d kick off my sandals and walk the beach. I’d go left first kicking up sand and collecting interesting rocks until I reached the point where the beach ended and the trail made its way upward through the dunes to the dramatic cliffs above.

“I don’t have proper shoes for this today,” I’d say to myself and turn around to walk to the other end of the beach where…